Faulty Hob Element – Quick Guide to Spotting and Solving the Problem

Nothing stops you in the middle of dinner like a hob that won’t heat. Most of the time the culprit is a bad heating element. The good news? You don’t always need a pro to get it working again. This guide walks you through the signs, the reasons it can go bad, and the practical steps to either reset or replace the element.

Why Your Hob Element Might Be Faulty

Electric hobs use a metal coil or a ceramic‑glass surface with a built‑in element. Over time the element can wear out for a few simple reasons. First, repeated heating and cooling makes the metal expand and contract, which can cause tiny cracks. Those cracks let electricity leak, so the element stops heating. Second, food spills that sit on the surface can corrode the contacts, especially if you use harsh cleaners. Third, a tripped circuit or a blown fuse can make it look like the element itself is dead when the problem is actually the power supply.

Typical symptoms include: the zone stays cold while others work, a faint clicking sound when you turn it on, or the indicator lights flashing odd patterns. If you notice any of these, start by checking the power. Unplug the hob, reset any circuit breaker, and look for a reset button on the unit. Many modern hobs have a hidden reset button near the control panel – press it for a few seconds and see if heat returns.

Fixing a Faulty Hob Element – Reset or Replace

Step 1: Safety first. Unplug the hob and let it cool completely. If it’s a built‑in model, you may need to remove the glass surface to access the element screws.

Step 2: Inspect the element. Look for visible cracks, discoloration, or burnt spots. A multimeter can help you test continuity – set it to the lowest ohm setting, touch the probes to the element’s terminals, and watch for a reading. No reading means the element is broken.

Step 3: Reset attempt. Some hobs have a thermal overload that trips when the element overheats. After the unit cools, press the reset button (if present) and plug it back in. If heat returns, the issue was just a temporary overload.

Step 4: Replacement. If the element fails the continuity test, you’ll need a new one. Note the model number (usually on a sticker under the hob) and buy a matching part. Installation is straightforward: remove the old element’s screws, disconnect the wiring harness, attach the new element, tighten the screws, and reconnect the harness. Replace the glass top, plug the hob back in, and test each zone.

Step 5: When to call a professional. If you’re uncomfortable handling electrical parts, if the hob still won’t heat after a new element, or if multiple zones are dead, it’s best to let a qualified technician take a look. They can check the control board and wiring, which are harder to diagnose yourself.

Bottom line: a faulty hob element is a common, fixable problem. By spotting the signs early, testing the element, and knowing when a simple reset will do, you can save time and money. Keep the hob clean, avoid harsh chemicals, and give it a quick visual check every few months – that’ll help the element last longer and keep your kitchen humming."